So I have been procrastinating on writing about Cambodia for two reasons. First, it was such a big trip (not just long, but in significance) that I hardly know where to start. Second, I want to not just post pictures but to give a real overview of what I thought about the country and my experiences while I was there. But the thing is, I'm not really much of a writer! Seriously, I'm an accountant - lists and spreadsheets. So I just felt like this was going to get short-changed. (See how I made an accounting joke there? I'm such a nerd.) I was just reading a travel blog that I really like and decided to steal her format. So here is an overview and then I'll get to some detailed posts later on with more pictures.
What made you choose this destination for your travels?
I had enough vacation time left for a 10-14 day trip late in 2013. I had already been several places in Europe and wanted to try somewhere new. Several years ago there was a TV show based on the book "1000 Places to See Before You Die" and the hosts went to Cambodia. It stuck with me and Angkor Wat in particular I wanted to visit. So I started doing research and bought a plane ticket! Important note here - I went alone. None of my friends had enough time off in November to go with me, or maybe weren't interested, didn't want to spend the money, whatever. I didn't (and don't!) want to let the idea of going alone to hold me back from going places at all.
How did you get there?
I flew Korean Air from London Heathrow, connected through Seoul and arrived into Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia. Korean Air is lovely. The flight attendants are beautiful. I know that is superficial, but they were skinny, had flawless skin and were smiley and polite the entire 11 hour flight. A complete change from the grumpy and frumpy flight attendants I usually encounter on US-based carriers. (Sorry to anyone reading this who is one, but it's the truth.) The food was good! They had regular Western-type options, but you could also get bibimbap, a traditional Korean rice dish. When I ordered bibimbap the flight attendant was very concerned about whether I had tried it before and even gave me a little instructional card (with pictures!) about how to mix the rice with the vegetables, sesame oil and pepper paste. It was delicious!
Where did you stay?
I debated this ALOT before I went. The obvious way to meet other solo travellers is to stay at a hostel. Call me a snob, but I just couldn't foresee being comfortable in such a new place staying in a dorm room with strangers. Plus I wanted to be as safe as possible. So I went for mid-budget level hotels in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Both had a restaurant and pool, so I could opt for a relaxing evening in if I wasn't up for going out at night. Both also had good reviews on Trip Advisor, even commenting on things I would never have thought of like "this hotel's management doesn't allow guests to bring extra guests onto the property - so you won't have to deal with men bringing home prostitutes to hang out by the pool." True comment on Trip Advisor. And apparently can be a real problem at some hotels in this part of the world.
Tips for future travellers to this destination?
They use a combination of US dollars and Cambodian rials, but primarily USD. So bring lots of small bills ($10 and under) as most everything is going to be less than $10. Also, bring cash to pay for your visa that you apply for upon arrival at the airport. I booked almost everything for this trip before I arrived, including my hotel, a taxi for airport arrival, day cycling tours and even my bus ticket from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. But it seemed you could do all of that upon arrival too, so don't feel like you have to get locked into everything before arrival.
Tips for packing for this destination?
It was hot and sunny most of the time I was there. Low 90's, which seemed delightful compared to London and at the same time, unbearably hot. Sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat were important for my fair-skinned self. One day was rainy all day long and a couple of evenings had torrential downpours, so an umbrella and light jacket are probably in order too. I suspect the rain could be much worse if you went during rainy season. Some of the temple sites require a bit of modesty so try to wear a long skirt or pants. You could also buy these ridiculous hammer pants type of things for about $5 outside every place that needed knees covered. Tons of people wore them and they were very goofy looking. I wore tshirts with short sleeves to protect my shoulders from burning, but it seemed most people in tank tops were ok. Somewhat sturdy shoes as you'll walk over lots of stones and rough terrain. Be sure you have a secure travel bag. More on that later.
Must see spots?
Angkor Wat was my primary reason for this trip, but it is part of a HUGE temple complex just outside Siem Reap. Think of Angkor like a national park in the US that goes on for miles. And it was dotted with dozens of temples of varying sizes and in varying states of disrepair. I only spent two days in the park, but you could easily do a week. In Phnom Penh, seeing the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda were my favorites. Another popular visit in Phnom Penh is to S-21 and the Killing Fields. These both commemorate the atrocities committed in the late 70s/early 80s by the Khmer Rouge. I only visited S-21, which was a school, then a prison and is now a museum. In both cities, the markets were fun as well - interesting just to walk around and see everything for sale from souvenirs to raw fish to motor engine parts and toilet paper. If you like bargaining, you'd have fun too - it's not my fave but I did some.
Final tips for this destination?
Get a massage - they are cheap! As cheap as a couple of dollars on the street or I went to a nice spa for a private room and paid about $15. Great way to relax after a long, hot day of sight-seeing. Try to do something that gets you out of the main city centers and tourist tracks. I did a cycling tour from Phnom Penh that took us into the surrounding country-side and villages. It was a completely different look at the normal lifestyles than what you get in the city. Even taking the bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap allowed me to see more than I would have if I had flown between the two.
More to come in some forthcoming posts with pictures and details!
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